It’s funny. . . I started out studying this costume and thinking I wouldn’t be able to tell you much about it. I’ve surprised myself. It’s not the first time.
The two really hard parts of this gown to figure out were the sleeves and the skirt. I know, I know, what could be so confusing about a skirt? And why in the world are the sleeves difficult to interpret? You’ll see.
Because of the surprising complexity of this gown, I have done more detail sketches than I normally do. Though they didn’t quite turn out the way I wanted them to.
|You can clearly see the princess seaming on the bodice.|
The bodice is princess seamed with embroidered trim around the neckline. There is an embroidered motif in the center front that the neckline follows. The trim goes all the way around the neckline (what I can see of it). The neckline dips quite low in the back. How low I can’t tell, as we are never treated to a good view of the back of the dress.
|Side/Back View of bodice shoulder. I would say the neckline a bit below her shoulder-blades.|
The sleeves took me quite a while to figure out, and I’m still not sure I quite understand them. However, I present you with my theory. They lap over at the top in the same way a couple of Hadassah’s other gowns do. By the way, I absolutely love that style of sleeve. I think these lap further over than the sleeves on her orange gown. They are also quite, quite long.
The tricky part? The sleeves double over on themselves at the bottom at come back up to a point that is attached just behind her shoulder. Don’t worry, I didn’t get it at first either. It’s crazy, and would require a ridiculous amount of fabric, but they look lovely.
The sleeves are unadorned.
The midriff is fashioned like a corset, and it wouldn’t surprise me to find out it was a separate piece that went over the dress and closed in the back. (Can you just imagine it done with some wide lacing up the back?) The corset begins just under the bust and continues down over the hips. It is definitely boned, as you can see in the picture below.
It looks to be made of some lovely printed satinish fabric. (I know, but I’m terrible at knowing what fabric is what. . . ) It is embellished with embroidered trim at the top (matching the bodice) and looks to have some beads, sequins, etc. decorating the lower edge.
The skirt took a ridiculous amount of pondering as well. At first I thought there was simply an ordinary overskirt with a plain blue underskirt. But no, why would the plain blue underskirt be sticking out in other places than the obvious one in front. Then I thought the skirt had plain blue godets sewn into it. But that wasn’t right either, godets are generally the same length as the skirt and the pictures kept telling me the lengths didn’t match up.
Finally, I have landed on the determination that there are two skirts. The overskirt of embroidered and embellished satiny fabric, and the underskirt of the plain blue.
|This is the picture that made me determine that the light blue was a different skirt. You can see how different the length is from the overskirt.|
The underskirt is just plain blue and crafted of the same fabric as the sleeves and bodice. Honestly, I think it likely that this more like an underdress, and is one piece with the bodice and sleeves.
This is slightly harder to define. The overskirt is made of a lovely flower patterned satiny material. It may be a sari fabric — that would make sense.
The overskirt is split in the front, with trim running down each side of that split. It is also split in several other places, I’m going to take a wild guess and say four or five more. It’s just slightly longer than the underskirt.
|Sorry about the quality of that. I should have just left it a sketch, instead
my paints decided to wreak their revenge on me for neglecting them so. 😀
Croquis (fashion figure) designed by Sally. C. Fink.